COGNAC BLUES PASSIONS AS A HOLIDAY DESTINATION ?

This review complements the one by the brothers in crime, but as requested by various people last months, focuses more on the social and domestic aspects. It is written in English so most readers can benefit, and allows them to get a better idea about what Cognac Blues Passions has to offer besides a fabulous list of performances.

The six day blues festival at Cognac in the southwest of France had already been high on my wish list for years. Thanks to some friends having the same idea it all materialized in 2008. By Tuesday evening about ten of us ended up together on adjacent spots on the official Cognac camping ground. This excellent value for money camping is situated two kilometres north of town along the river Charente so a bicycle or car is recommended to commute back and forth and for grocery trips. Sufficient distance between spots, ample tree foliage for sun protection and hardened spots for heavier campers immediately made clear this would  be different from the crowded, muddy and noisy low countries festival accommodation.

At a stone throw away we had toilets, showers and a swimming pool. For people with kids there is a nice playground on site and a much larger one with sand and much more on walking distance. More details and (recommended) reservations through  http://www.campingdecognac.com

Tuesday evening we joined the early arrivals on their trip to Jarnac, a small town ten miles up the river, for the official opening. If you elect to go there, be in time because parking is at a premium. A lot of sponsor connected people arrived by shuttle boat on the island which had been converted into a small festival site. At the gate we elected to pay the 12€ fee for the day, instead of the tenfold for the whole festival duration, but more thereof later. First impression made clear the attendance was much different from the Benelux. Although people were not dressed fancy, we noted few hats, labelled black t-shirts or tattoos, and empty plastic cups were all directed into the garbage containers instead of being left on the spot. During one of the (short) opening speeches Ségolène Royal (almost the first French woman president) mentioned the festival benefited from 80.000 Euro departemental aid, seems like France returns more tax money to their music loving people (Belgium throws away about the same amount to promote a single artist for the Eurovision song festival, and they never reach the finals).

As for the performances, elderly dame “Beverly Guitar Watkins” gave us all the proof that age is no excuse to leave the music scene. Her musicians were certainly up to par but special mention goes to her drummer, a guy who obviously learned a lot (musically and visually) from Gene Kruppa. “The commitments” started with a few good soul numbers but rapidly degraded into less than a mainstream act. Upon our return we started analysing the different weekly program books and figured out most of the daytime groups for Wednesday also played at different times and locations later that week (We later noticed this often happened with with totally different repertoires). We also noted a third of the paying performances got repeats at smaller free venues. We thus elected to only attend some of the 15 free concerts each day (at about 10 different adjacent locations).

Apparently we were not the only ones to insert an off day after the long journey south. After a swim and homemade supper we pedalled along the river (thus avoiding a climb over a long hill) and joined the crowd in front of “the fair play”, an Irish pub (with all kinds of Belgian draft beer!) along a square with daily concerts on the blocked street. Eating or drinking while listening to “Lonj”, a local artist singing, playing guitar and foot stumping in a repertoire of classical Delta Blues traditionals. The ideal way to start an evening and something that can be done with wife and kids of all ages.

We left our bicycles at the same place each day because most performances were within a 500m radius all week long. At 10pm we tried to force our way through the street in front of the Hotel Heritage for a concert of René Miller and David Chalumeau, but that proved difficult. The hotel is in the old very picturesque part of town (with lots of small shops and pubs), but the street is too narrow for such an event, with suffocating air and bad sound on the sides were most people are amassed. Time for a walk and finding a good spot for the concert of “Gas” on the Magic Place. This is a roundabout with large stage in the middle and surrounded  by numerous bars and restaurants with terraces. This place was packed every evening because at 23h30 the main (free) act would play till past 1am. “Gas” was a revelation for me, it’s a group who is able to mix modern electric blues instruments and sounds with 3 traditional Armenian instruments and style. The result was more than pleasing, and the warm voice of Gaspard Ossikian certainly was not strange to that. His blues sounded sometimes from Egypt, sometimes from Morocco, and American at other times, but always original, refreshing and heart moving. I wouldn’t have traded my place with the 6000 others who at that time were listening to the famous but monotonous riffs of Status Quo in the park.

Thursday again had a slow start (due to late night talks?) and we took 6 more hours than Rootsville’s nr1 reporter and photographer to join town, but the swimming pool and an elaborated brunch and some housekeeping attracted us more. As people say: there are workhorses and luxury horses, guess which we feel like! (workhorses can usually be spotted wearing badges around the neck, deluxe horses wear necklaces or jewellery). During the afternoon we discovered the main park which houses the amphitheatre for the big performances (blues paradise), a smaller stage (Eden blues) in front of sales tents (Dutch cd retailer!), an open air area around a stage for mainly acoustic acts (Tonic day), a children playground, various temporary bars and restaurants in tents, some historical buildings and a small zoo for the children.

Believe it or not, behind this fake wooden wall are the ordinary but clean individual plastic toilet cabins. Blues expression into all details, but optically very pleasing.

We picked up some songs of “Mary Flower” in the Eden, together with a few classes of kindergarten kids, they definitely invest in future audiences for Cognac. Then we listened to “Eric Bling” play blues related songs on guitar, harp en percussion, aided by his pure voice. This was done laying out flat chatting with friends, on the grass about 30 meters in front of the Tonic Day stage. By the way, 2cl of cognac mixed with Schweppes Tonic and served in a high glass tastes very refreshing and costs no more than (Heiniken) water. After that we moved (only 150m) to Eden blues and listened to “Dawn Tyler Watson & Paul Deslauriers”, a Canadian couple well worth paying attention to. Her beautiful voice and his fabulous acoustic guitar play surprised many of us. In the back of the garden across the street is the Carré du Blues, an inside court in the old Camus distillery. Here at the end of the afternoon solo or dual acoustic acts were scheduled on a daily basis. The American “Bobby Rush” had a very warm and pure voice but the sunshine in the eyes and lack of refreshing wind forced us to leave before the end of his concert. The bbq at the camper took longer as expected and a variety of friends joining us all along the evening and night, prevented us from joining town again, but… the wine was good and the people nice.

Friday we decided to make it a real blues day so we left our (motor)home after dinner and took clothes along for an after midnight return. First (for us late sleepers) “Greg Brown” played folk blues at Tonic day, then we got hooked by “Phoebe Killdear & the short straw” at Eden Blues. They bring a type of music which is difficult to categorize, sometimes it sounds jazzy, sometimes you could swear it was Pink Floyd or Jefferson Airplane in your ears. Phoebe moves along the stage with psychedelic allures and a great voice, the guitarist is not afraid of experimenting with some fabulous combinations, definitely worth your attention. The rain became (much) harder at the end of their show but that did not prevent the audience staying around. Foldable umbrella’s are a must, mostly to create some shade but occasionally a few raindrops hit Cognac as well.

While some Belgians preferred to hide (and participate) in the daily jam session downtown, I got a bit messed up with the timings and therefore ended up early on the Magic Place for the “Linda Tillery & the Heritage Cultural show”. With so much going on each day choices have to be made. Our early arrival meant we were able to see their performance from a pole position. (that also is rootsville “at work” with Affligem in real glass on the Magic place!)

The black Mama’s with red boa’s on stage brought us a chronological repertoire of the history of blues from the 18th century till now, with good percussion and sometimes astonishing vocal effects. The overlap prevented us from seeing the complete performance of the “Steel guitar Trio” a street away but I remember a very mellow version of “sleepwalk” (Shadows) and original end of show. Each musician in turn would play his solo and leave the stage under applause, leaving the drummer alone for a final solo and note.

Time to eat in one of the relatively cheap little local restaurants (where they also had a live cover band playing inside) and as it got dark we had another try at the Heritage area, but after the join up with friends we moved to the coolness of the place Magic for the closing concert of Big Dez & Sax Gordon. I had seen both separately and was looking forward hearing them together. Because Sax Gordon had another sax and trumpet player alongside, he kept a lower profile and left Big Dez to defend his national colours. Even a local old lady who every evening walked faithfully the few streets with her cane was shaking her hands and feet (and it was not Parkinson). I again had no regrets I was not with most other Belgians at the John Baez and Leningrad Cowboys recital down the road.

Saturday we started to feel the effects of such blues marathons so an extensive relax brunch, grocery shopping in town, and a swim filled our agenda before supper and a evening trip to Magic Place. Another reason for the late start were the warnings about the overcrowded town due to the weekend and specific additional public for the Massive Attack concert at the blues paradise. “Awek” was on our not to miss list, and fulfilled or exceeded all expectations with great Chicago blues. We weren’t the only ones impressed, because they won the Cognac prize (mmmh, great bottle) and as such are assured of a mainstage slot for the 2009 edition, and various promotional concerts before. I wonder who will bring them to Belgium and when?

Sunday we were up in time to wave out the Belgian friends who had to work on Monday, and were ready by noon to walk with our chairs to the camping entrance where everybody immensely enjoyed the final Cognac performance of “Washboard Chaz Blues”. Complete families having lunch on the grass behind the players, what better way to broaden the musical spectre of  young and old?

After a light meal and dip in the pool we cycled downtown and because on Sunday all concerts are free we were able to sit in the Blues Paradise amphitheatre for the following ones. 5pm is early and the place has not sufficient shade for the audience to hide from the burning sun..

Roland Tchankounté (winner of last year) opened and I liked his mix of African songs and rhythms. A pity his harp player only played shortly because he did that with much soul and lower tones as what we are used to. Then it was the turn of Wanda Jackson but she couldn’t’ convince and didn’t sound good in the lower tones. Best of all was when the local brass band crawled up the stage and both groups played a few tunes together.

All this got us hungry and we joined the Move2Blues couple at the pizzeria. After the obligatory illogical negotiations we obtained food at a different table on the street. Jo (from Bugaboos) and Kirri (5 o’clock shadow bluesband) were still around with their partners and chatted along our table, but later went to other concerts in various local cafés. We heard Jive Romeros without actually watching them (sipping coffee 100 yards away), together with another group lower in the street, not an ideal combination. We went along with Johnny and Maïke and as such discovered the towns’ other (free) motorhome parking lot along the Charente river, across the harbour. No shower or swimming pool but closer to town this also is a valid option. (The picture was taken on Monday when most had left).

Monday was rainy so it was time to pack and leave, but not before visiting the Otard distillery and medieval Chateau, learning to taste Cognac instead of drinking it, and often being pointed out the differences between Brandy and Cognac. We also were in the historic room where the daily acoustic blues concerts took place and only could imagine how good the sound must have been, the ceiling having been designed by Leonardo Da Vinci.

Instead of driving back home straight we decided on the spot to spend another few sunny days halfway back in Normandy. We couldn’t avoid the traditional Celtic concert brought to our table, but those delicious “Fruits de mer” (as starter !) more than made up for that.

Conclusion:
We went for the blues, but ended up enjoying a holiday, others joined up from their holiday, picking up a week of concerts. Cognac Blues Passions allows you to perfectly combine both. There is sufficient variety in local activities that your partner, children or even parents can go along and for the real blues fanatics: daily almost non stop concerts from 10am till 1am the next day (100 concerts total). We much enjoyed our 18 concerts in 6 days and had lots of leisure time in between. This is not a festival taking place on a deserted piece of land outside town, Cognac has the whole town participating and many streets are free of traffic. My senses might have let me down, but I saw neither drunk people, any sign of violence and didn’t smell funny grass all week long.
Most of our friends already took the decision to go back in 2009, we probably will go as well, but will take some more days enroute, thus avoiding Paris traffic and the expensive toll highways, whilst discovering more of  “la douce France”.

Laurence